As I cross the one month mark here in Guatemala, I've started thinking of all the things I'm going to miss once I'm back stateside, like hearing Spanish songs on the radio or being greeted by bounding golden retrievers whenever I come home. Yet, although I know it sounds cliché, the thing I'm going to miss most by far are the people:

Our beyond capable loan officer who left his job to follow his heart (and his fiancee, who just happens to work for Lemonade International, grew up in La Limonada, and has been an invaluable resource to our work). His fiancee is an inspiration herself, living proof of the concept behind the "American Dream". Although she grew up in the poorest of circumstances, she rose to the top of her advertising job, saving enough to move herself and her parents out of La Limonada, before giving it all up to give back to her community. In her own words, she felt as if she needed more than money out of a job, yearning for a career that would help her grow as a person.

The teachers from the school, many of whom raise families in La Limonada, and treat our visits to their classes as true delights instead of the distractions they probably are.

Of course the students as well. I can't really describe the feeling when a child recognizes me when I enter a classroom, but let's just say I can't help but smile. Watching them glue together photo frames during crafts it's bittersweet to think that if they weren't here they could be sniffing this same glue to get a high.

Tita, and all the wonderful women in her home. Tita has devoted her life, completely and irrationally, to her work in La Limonada. This extends to her home as well, the site of our usual afternoon work sessions. The house has a life of its own cluttered with photos of family and filled with a constant mix of the warmth, laughter, and exertion of the never-ending stream of teachers and volunteers who pass through. Four women, all teachers or Lemonade employees, also permanently live with Tita. Three of them are “mothers” to children they have more or less “adopted” from the ghetto. With heart wrenching stories from parents in jail to being born out of wedlock as the youngest of seven, these children make Tita’s house a home. Saturday, we spent the entire afternoon and evening with Tita’s extended “family”, watching the kids clamber over jungle-gyms at the local park and finding enough chairs to fit the 11 of us around the dinner table. Hearing the stories of their lives, their steadfast hope and faith, along with the trials and tribulations of their work, has opened my eyes. I can’t say enough for the ease with which they open their home and their hearts, something that is greatly lacking in American culture.

The five fantastic women who make up our first borrower group. This Tuesday was our third workshop on Budgeting with a transition into group dynamics using a Personality Assessment. Looking back, thinking that we could cover all the basics behind budgeting in one session was extremely overambitious. When it came to building your own personal budget, we realized we were in way over our heads. Several of the women sell multiple products, which they buy and sell at different prices and quantities throughout the year. The woman I was working with sold vajillas –or tableware including bowls, plates, and glasses. Although she knew exactly how much profit she gained from each set of plates, she had little grasp of the quantity she actually sold each month or how her profits compared to her personal costs including rent, transportation, etc. Budgeting has enormous potential for affecting how these women think about their business; looking towards the next month instead of living dia-a-dia—day-to-day.

Last, but certainly not least, simply la gente- the people of La Limonada who won't let you pass without a Buenos Dias--good morning or Buenas Tardes--good afternoon.

Tuesday was the day for our second workshop, centered around savings. I'm a big fan of the concept of savings in general--the notion that saving can help you, not only to organize your life, but to achieve your dreams (whether it be a new car or a vocational certification) is pretty captivating. That being said, I was really looking forward to how the topic would be received among the women. Once again seven women showed up for the class, five of whom had attended the first session as well. The class was structured to follow the story of a fictional Maria, highlighting discussion points where she could have implemented savings strategies ranging from taking only a minimal amount of money to the market to buying a mosquito coil to prevent the never-ending costs of an attack of dengue fever, prevalent in this area. Remarkably, the discussions fostered ideas, from networking to women's empowerment, which until now, we had only read about in microfinance literature! For example, one woman announced a low income housing project she knew of for which the other women could be eligible while another boldly stated that the most important part of saving for her, was keeping it from her husband, because when they had savings he lost sight of the need to work. In a later meeting she proudly stated that it was SHE who wore the pants in the relationship! Besides savings, we also offered a more complete overview of our initial loan terms and requirements: weekly attendance , 10%interest, mandatory savings deposit, 12%savings, 3 month loan cycle, GROUP LENDING, etc. To give you some perspective, FINCA one of the largest microfinance institutions working in Guatemala, charges anywhere from 25-30% interest, which compounds when clients miss payments, putting them farther in debt. The best part of the workshop was probably when one of the women raised her hand: "Why should I pay for someone's else irresponsibility?" she challenged us. Although we could have entered into a long-winded explanation defending the group model: it fosters trust and community, creates a safe-guard that provides for long-term sustainability, etc., the sheer fact that she was questioning our program made us smile. These women aren't looking for a handout, they are capable and responsible mothers, looking for a way to better their lives.

On Wednesday and Thursday we made home visits to all of the women, filling out loan applications, asset assessments, and a general impact analysis/surveys. Visiting their homes was both humbling, as most live in one room houses with tin roofs and walls patched with cardboard and metal sheets, and inspiring as almost every single women asserted herself as the sole owner or "decision maker" of her household and business. The women were quick to open up, laughing at our innocence when they recalled how often they'd seen a gun in the past week or giving a sorry smile as they lamented how lack of money had kept them from making a hospital visit when their daughter had taken ill. Interestingly enough, several of the women have also had past loans with FINCA or similar institutions. Having been stripped of their savings, these experiences have made them more wary towards endeavors like our own.

The only really unnerving result of our home visits was the realization that one of the women was not a viable borrower. Several of the other women confided in us that she and her husband have used robbery as a means for survival in the past, and have even resorted to extortion. If they didn't trust her with their children, how could we ask them to trust her with their livelihoods? The sad truth is that for many in La Limonada a heart of solid gold still doesn't feed a hungry child, and what people revert to in dire circumstances is the most telling character reference of all. Yet, honestly, it's hard to judge when I don't know what I would or wouldn't do when faced with no opportunity and the responsibility of another human being.

Although we believe we have five strongly committed women to create our pilot borrower group, a lot remains to be seen. The biggest problem we face are social constructs, intangible in nature. Currently 3 of are women are from Mandarina while 2 are from Limon, contrasting sides of La Limonada. In general, nobody crosses between these two sides (we are always escorted by a teacher when walking in La Limonada) making the idea of weekly meetings, a thought rather than a reality. Ideally, in the future, women will approach us with a group of 4 or 5 women with whom they would like to receive a loan. This self-screening process ensures that the women have a basic faith and confidence in one another prior to any talk of money. Unfortunately, for this first cycle, we don't have this luxury, and while the concept of women coming from either side of La Limonada to work together is inspirational it also adds a tinge of danger. How far are we, and more importantly these women, willing to go in the name of breaking barriers?

Friday, we just hiked a volcano.

I apologize if this post is much later than expected. I've been searching for adequate words to describe Lake Atitlan, (breathtaking, unbelievable, spectacular, and magnificent, to name a few) but none of them really do it justice. Let's suffice it to say that the Lake far exceeded my expectations. The cramped 3 hour drive filled with twists and turns as we climbed up and down the hillside was more than worth it the moment we stepped out of the car and found ourselves gazing out across an endless expanse of sparking blue flanked by majestic volcanic peak and wispy low-lying clouds.

As if the views from the ground weren't enough, within a couple hours of arriving we found ourselves trekking up through the rain forest, passing gushing waterfalls and swinging monkeys as we made our way to the zip-lines near the tree canopy. Of course, the moment we reached the first zip-line it started pouring down rain. (Have I mentioned that it's rainy season here in Guatemala?) It would be putting it kindly to say we got soaked; in reality we were absolutely drenched.

Yet, the view as I swung across the canopy on the zip-line made me

completely forget about my camera precariously stuffed in a jacket pocket and instead imagine myself in the middle of the movie Tarzan. With the rain attacking my face I felt as if the epic battle scene, when Clayton and Tarzan are lunging at one another amidst a raging thunderstorm, could have been occurring on the vines below. The adrenaline rush coupled by the stunning views made zip-lining through the canopy an adventure i'm not likely to ever forget.

By the time we got back to our bungalow hotel the rain had abated, but since we were already wet we figured a dip into the lake was more than warranted. I stayed in the water for about 15minutes before realizing that treading water is a lot harder than it seems...

That night we went to the local town of Panajachel for dinner at the Circus Bar, a cozy pizzeria featuring live guitar music and small town charm. The setting made for a perfect ending to our pretty extraordinary day.

The next morning we woke up at the crack of dawn and clambered down to the Lake with our eyes half open to catch a glimpse of sunrise. There was a definite feeling of peace that pervaded the area as the Lake calmly stretched out before us, in all its solitary splendor.

That day we went on the most amazing boat ride, renting a motor boat to tour a couple of the nearby towns. The villages surrounding Lake Atitlan are home to a mostly Indian-of Mayan descent population. Indian's make up approximately half of Guatemala's population on the whole. We watched how women spin cotton, marveled at a local carnival, and passed through the workshops of local artisans. The best part of the day was probably just sitting in the boat with my hand grazing the water, looking out on a tropical paradise.

Thursday felt like we took one step backward and two steps forward, which put's us ahead in my book. In the morning we opened the official bank account into which the women will deposit their weekly repayment checks! We also had a meeting with "JC", an architect from the schools who is well connected with the local community. He was wary about our plans, which helped to bring us back to reality in a way. Although it definitely isn't bad to have a more realistic opinion, especially when we are planning on having loans out within a month of meeting our clients (eek!), it's never easy to hear. I can't tell you how many times we have heard that for those seeking formal employment, the mere mention of a La Limonada residence on an application is an immediate cause for disqualification. That your address can rule your ambitions is more than a tragedy, it's an injustice.

The best part of our meeting with "JC" was him putting us in contact with Otto, an official from Fundacion Micros, the local Guatemalan Microfinance Initiative we are paying to train our own loan officer. Otto was more than willing to share his experiences and advice, and by that I mean three hours of trying to comprehend straight conversational Spanish (i'll admit my mind veered off course once or twice...). Overall, we came away with a manual of Fundacion Micros' inner workings and a heightened sense of the risk we are taking on. Unlike us, Fundacion Micros does not cater to "red zones", never takes on clients who haven't had established businesses for at least a year, often have clients put up their houses as collateral, and are moving away from the group lending model.

On the way to our meeting with Otto we drove through one of Guatemala's red light districts, defined by rows and rows of single rooms with scantily clad women gazing out of cracked doors. Although this really has nothing to do with our project/excursions I thought I'd mention it because it was unbelievably sad. Needless to say, I counted my blessings that night to have grown up as a young woman in the American suburbs.

Two words. LAKE ATITLAN. more to come of my "dream vacation" weekend soon!

Lunch on Monday was an affair to remember, much more than our usual packed sandwiches. An elderly couple in La Limonada invited us over for a delicious meal of frijoles y arroz- traditional rice and beans. The setting was intimate, to say the least, as ten of us crowded around the table of their one room house. The couple, who now live on their own, have had more than their share of hardships. After serving us heaping servings of her homemade food, la abuela- grandmother spoke of the days when she had only 5 Quetzales a week (less than a dollar) to feed her children. Although she is illiterate and her husband is completely blind, together they are complete. In her words, she is his eyes while he is her cane, her rock to lean on. Ever the mother, she wouldn't allow the girls to help with the dishes and even reminded me to drink chamomile tea in the evening for my sore throat. Their strength and love was contagious and I think we all left with much more than full stomachs.

Tuesday was our very first small business workshop! Anticipations ran high Monday night as we put the final touches on our translated worksheets, organized personal folders, and wrote out discussion questions. We were happily relieved when seven (out of the 20 to whom we sent invitations) women from the community turned up for our lesson. The women were extremely engaged and interactive throughout the lesson, sharing their small business struggles--the instability of sales, the need for product diversification, and the trade-off between managing work and family. The best part of the lesson was a "visualization exercise" where we asked the women to close their eyes and picture their lives in five years, free of obstacles and full of opportunity. The women described themselves as proud and content, living in stable households and handling employees while they had time to watch their children grow up. It's exciting to think that allowing them a glimpse into the future will help them to believe in its possibility.

At the end of the workshop we urged the women to think of a friend they trust to bring to our next Tuesday session, in which we plan to focus on savings and personality assessment. Currently our goal, after receiving a small savings deposit from each borrower, is to give out loans to two borrower groups of five women each after our third workshop!

Weekend Antics.

Friday morning our house mother took us to visit the local markets in Zona 1. Easily a shopaholic's dream, the markets are filled with everything from fresh papaya and racks of meat

to gigantic life-size piñatas. We maneuvered through the market's hustle and bustle, bargaining with stall owners for a stack of playing cards or the freshest pineapple around.

On Saturday, Sofia and her sister took us to visit Antigua, an old colonial town about a hour's drive from Guatemala City. Home to the first university in Central America, towering volcanoes, and cobblestone pathways, Antigua, which once stood as the country's capital, is now maintained as a cultural heritage site. Although the volcanoes surrounding the town allow for spectacular views, they are also responsible for numerous architectural ruins throughout the city. We visited an old convent, imagining ourselves as the young nuns who, after entering in their early teens, never again saw the outside of the church's walls. We marveled at old church ruins, watched workers in a jade factory, and eventually found ourselves in a quaint Italian restaurant where we enjoyed wood fired pizza and waited out the rain. (Its rainy season in Guatemala!) When the rain died down, we ventured to La Casa de Santa Domingo, Antigua's most famous hotel and every girl's dream wedding venue. With gushing fountains and squawking parrots, the hotel is somewhat of a tropical paradise. At the hotel, we even ran into doctor from Chapel Hill has been working at UNC hospitals for the past 20 years. What a small world!

Saturday night Sofia invited us to her home to watch a movie, American Violet. (which I would greatly recommend) The best part of the evening was when the movie instigated a conversation which truly brought out all of our cultural differences. The four of us have all been raised according to very different religious traditions, Catholic, Protestant, Hindu and Muslim, and I'm starting to realize that the best part of this trip is simply having the opportunity to discuss and evaluate my views in great company.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words I'll post one right here. This is the view of La Limonada seen when we walk down every morning:

The people of La Limonada are some of the warmest and most welcoming I've ever met, ready to let complete strangers into their homes with a cheek-to-cheek kiss (the equivalent of a handshake in Guatemala). On Tuesday we got the chance to visit several of the homes of the women who we hope will attend our micro finance workshops. There was a large range, from women who already owned small tiendas-shops in La Limonada, and a woman who makes gorgeous silver jewelery to sell to the local missionaries, to women who live day-to-day selling sandals or bread on street corners. There are also several woman who have both the drive and desire for business but either feel threatened to sell within the ghetto or have been kept in the dark due to family issues such as drugs or childcare. All in all, the potential we came across is more than we could have hoped and I'm looking forward to our first true meeting/lesson next Tuesday!

Besides making house visits we have spent a lot of our time getting plugged into the school community. Lemonade International funds two schools in La Limonada under the care of Tita, who started the entire initiative in La Limonada over 15 years ago. Since public schools are only half-days in Guatemala, the kids attend both their public school and the Lemonade school. Unlike normal school the Lemonade school provides health and wellness education, free daily meals, and arts/sports electives. The kids are absolutely adorable and its tough to hear Marisa say she doesn't feel safe in La Limonada or Johnathan talk about the lack of attention he receives at home. Today I even had the chance to help translate with a class full of 4/5 year olds! The littlest ones are definitely my favorites, rushing to tickle and hug you before even asking your name.

The school also sponsors a carpentry workshop for current/ex-gang members. The gang culture in La Limonada is rampant and although the entire area of La Limonada is considered a "red zone" of Guatemala City there are barrios-neighborhoods within the zone controlled by different gangs creating very distinct social barriers within the community. Workshops such as these are vital to keep kids engaged during the precarious years between which they graduate from school at 15 and become eligible to compete for employment. Watching the members of the carpentry workshop, los muchachos, play soccer in a local park this afternoon its crazy to think that just a couple months ago they could have been walking around with guns. In the next couple of weeks we are hoping to begin "savings circles" with los muchachos to truly harness the impact that an income flow, bank account, and budget can have in achieving ones goals.

Speaking of impact, lately we have devoted a lot of thinking as to how to best to evaluate our project. As this is the first microfinance venture in La Limonada, and possibly in the urban slums of Guatemala, impact analysis is definitely found on the road less traveled. A lot of what we hope to achieve, instilling purpose and strengthening community ties, simply cannot be measured by counting up ones personal assets. Although we plan to give surveys to borrowers and community members to gauge issues such as violence and education, the question still remains; how can you truly measure someone's quality of life?

If you'd like to hear more about our project and happenings in Guatemala please check out Santi's or Mohammed's blog.

Mucho Amor,

Sarika